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Spantik Peak | Snowland
Spantik Peak

Spantik Peak

Climbing Routes

Normal South East Route
The North West Route
Expedition Summary

Max Altitude: 7027m/ 23054 ft

Range: Karakoram

Ideal Duration:30 Days

Climbing: 14 days

Spantik Peak Camp 1

Trip Highlights

  • A fantastic 7,000m peak with great views of Karakoram Mountains.
  • Favorite for climbers to training themselves for higher elevations
  • Technically simple expedition – ideal for beginners
  • Karakoram Highway – the “eighth wonder of the world”.

Expedition Overview

Spantik is a superb introduction to the Karakoram. A fantastic 7,000m peak with great views of Karakoram mountains. A classic Himalayan expedition. Climbing the ‘Classic’ SE ridge. Spantik also known as Golden Peak and Ghenish Chhish is rightfully becoming known as one of the classic mountaineering objectives in the stunning Karakoram mountains of Northern Pakistan.

This peak with its famous Golden pillars is a striking objective to behold and despite its fierce aspect it is relatively straight- forward and safe to climb. As the crow flies is barely 30km from the infamous Karakoram highway. Yet it is approached by trekking for four days along the dramatic Chogolungma Glacier passing through sensational mountain country. This mountain is located in a remote corner of the Karakoram and receives many less expeditions than the peaks of the Baltoro region.

 Our climbing route: The south-east ridge is a long snow ridge with only a few sections of technical difficulty and little objective danger. This route was first attempted in 1906 by the American couple Fanny and William Bullock Workman who reached a very creditable high point of 6,700m. Karl Kramer’s German expedition made the first successful ascent of the mountain by this route in 1955. The views from the summit are some of the most spectacular in this unique mountain range: The Nagar and Hunza peaks can be seen close by to the west, while Nanga Parbat lays to the south and K2 and the Baltoro peaks can be seen on the eastern horizon. Spantik is a truly Himalayan scale objective.



Holiday Itinerary



On arrival transfer the group to hotel/ Guest House, in Rawalpindi Islamabad (the airport is situated mid-way between Islamabad and Rawalpindi). You will meet your guide in the afternoon at the hotel for a trip briefing and gear check.


FLY TO SKARDU (45 min Flight)/ DRIVE TO CHILAS(10-12 Hours Drive)
a) Weather permitting, we take a spectacular flight to the high mountain region of Baltistan in the north east. On a clear day we should be able to see Nanga Parbat (8124m) and K2 (8611m) towering above all other mountains. (It is quite possible adverse weather in Islamabad or Skardu may affect our flight plans and make it necessary to drive by the Karakoram Highway to Skardu, a journey of approx two days).
b) In case of cancellation of flight drive 10-12hrs by air conditioned coach/car to Chilas (480km) on the Karakoram highway. Overnight at Shangrila Indus View Hotel or Panorama hotel.


a) Overnight Mashabrum Hotel. Preparations for our trek and depending on our time of arrival into Skardu, there may be time to visit the town and possibly an excursion to Kachura Lake situated at the edge of the valley. Skardu is the regional capital of Baltistan, lying at the edge of a broad floodplain that is the confluence of the Shyok, Indus and Basha Rivers. b) If we are driving the road journey today will be 7-8 hrs to Skardu (275km). On route are spectacular views of Nanga Parbat (8125m) overnight Hotel.


Jeeps take us up the Shigar Valley, following the Askole road before branching westwards to follow the Basha River Gorge to the village of Arandu. Due to the dramatic geology of these mountains landslides sometimes cover the road and we will have to negotiate the debris to get to the trafficable road beyond. This 85 Km journey often requires a full day. We camp at the edge of Arandu village.


Trek to Chogo Brangsa camp 3,300m(5-6 hours)
Today we meet the local porters from the village, these hardy mountain men carry our equipment to base camp. The first day of trekking is quite short following the grassy valley on the northern side of the Chogolungma Glacier.


Trek to Bolocho camp 3,800m(7-8 hours)
A longer day of trekking. We continue along the northern edge of the Chogolungma Glacier, crossing two subsidiary glaciers to a campsite by the Bolocho Glacier


Trek to Spantik base camp 4,300m (5-6 hours)
We leave the ablation valley and head on to the ice of the Chogolungma Glacier. We gently gain height as we approach base camp at the foot of Spantik's South East Ridge.


Rest Day at base camp (4300m)
Today is spent at our base camp. Resting acclimatising and sorting out our equipment for the days ahead. We will finally be able to trace our route and take in the objective that lies ahead.


Ascent of Spantik (day 9 to day 23 for climbing)
We have 13-14 days to climb the peak. Three camps will be established above BC: camp 1 at 5,250m, camp 2 at 5,650m and camp 3 at 6,250m. Over these days we begin to ferry equipment and food up to the higher camps. Each team member carrying relatively small loads to enhance acclimatisation and adhering to the mountaineers dictum of climbing high and sleeping low. Progressively we set up high camp and will be able to make a summit bid. The slopes are mostly angled at 30 degrees or less. A few sections of 40 degrees will be equipped with fixed ropes.


Packing up base camp
Together with our local staff, we will dismantle base camp. Start our return trek via Haramosh La with an early breakfast.


Return to Arandu (Day 25-26)


Arandu to Skardu (Day 27)


Fly to Islamabad or drive to Chilas from Skardu (Day 28)


drive to Islamabad from Chilas /Rest day in Islamabad (Day 29)


Fly back to home from Islamabad (Day 30)
Departure Trip Dates Islamabad Islamabad Availability
1st Departure 16 Jul - 16 Aug 16-Jul-2018 16-Aug-2018 Guaranteed Book Now

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