We have an early start and after breakfast at our lakeside camp, we drop down directly southwards to the Sumaiyar Bar Glacier. It is 1100 metres of descent to the grazing ground, known as Phahi Phari, and this takes around 3 hours, depending on our fitness. From here, we follow a trail beside the glacier for an hour or so until we are beyond its confluence with the Barpu Glacier. We then drop down onto the ice to make the glacier crossing which can take up to 2 hours. Here, we are well above the crossing point that we used at the beginning of our trek and we encounter different conditions. The central part of the glacier is easy going on level white ice, which is not at all slippery on account of the gravel that is melted into its surface. The edges of the glacier, in contrast, are more broken up and we have to take care to find the best route. Microspikes may be useful here. Reaching the west side of the glacier, we continue along the ablation valley between the main hillside and the lateral moraine. This gives very pleasant walking. Eventually the trail traverses the hillside itself high above the glacier and there is a degree of exposure here. However this is the route that the local people use to bring their cattle to the high pastures and the trail is reasonably well maintained. Approximately 2 hours beyond the glacier crossing, we reach the seasonally inhabited settlement of Hamdar (3400m), where there is a collection of stone-built houses and an area of cultivated land surrounded by extensive pasture. From our camp here, there are brilliant views back across the Barpu Glacier to the Golden Pillar of Spantik at the head of the valley. In the evening, if we are lucky, our porters and the local herdsmen will get together for a session of singing and dancing.
Meals Included: All Meals
Accomodation: Camp
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